Tonight worked till 10 finishing the left HS skin, disassemling the left HS rib/spar structure, deburring it, and cleaning the uber-sticky part number tags off the ribs. Doing this on the right side took longer, and also ate up my hands. Used citrus-based Goo Gone, which isn't too bad, but still not good for your skin. This time used the latex gloves and saved my hands. 2.6 hours. I don't intend to work that much every night, but I really wanted to finish the edge sanding tonight.
From the weekend:
The Avery order for 200 more clecoes came in. They sure do have quick turn around. Order placed on Wednesday night, package arrives Friday. Also ordered the small profile female dimple die and flush sqeezers. Even the toolbox has some spots where the full sized squeezer dies are just too big, and will result in deforming the piece being dimpled. One choice is to use a grinder to make a flat spot, but I was going to do that to a spare die. Instead, I just bought the small die and saved a bunch of time with the grinder.
Spent .2 filling in the missing clecoes on the HS right side. Now it’s ready to match drill.
Right HS ready for match drilling.
Granger made a 3’ x 6” (by ½”) back riveting plate for me. It looks like it will work just fine. Bought two pieces of smooth ½ sheet to match the height of the plate. Cut them so that they can be reconfigured all sorts of ways on the top of the workbench to set up a back riveting bench. Much easier and less destructive than trying to put a cutout in the main table surface. Also finally redid the DRDT-2 positioning, so now I can use it for rib flanges. That all ate up the 3 hrs of general time.
New DRDT-2 positioning
Then I match drilled and removed all of those clecoes. I’ve got blisters on me fingers!
Deburred the ribs and spars. Then deburred the skin, and cleaned up the edges. Started preparing the left HS skin. That all took 5 hours and really wore me out (or maybe that was the 6 miles I ran).
Should be ready to start dimpling by mid week. I’ve also been researching primer. Torn between no priming, the P60G2 that Van’s uses on the quickbuilds, and the SW #988 (which is an automotive line product). Bought a can of the #988. Miguel at the Sherwin-Williams store said the can would cover “about a fender”. I guess it depends if you have a cadillac or a Yaris how much that is, but at $10 a can it seems kind of expensive to use this for both sides of the interior structure.
They had a two part product that was equivalent to the #988, it was about $100/quart. Miguel also said that the 988 by itself would not offer very much additional moisture protection without a further coat. So does that mean that the parts that require primer need a top layer?
I’ll go by the industrial product SW store today and talk to them about the P60G2.
After a trip to the Sherwin-Williams store
Actually, I went by the store and bought the P60G2. The two gallons of that and the reducer are about $90. Also picked up more emory cloth and a painting respirator. Got home and really read the data sheet. Last bullet under product limitations: "This product does not provide significant corrosion protection". Now having buyers remorse. Should I even use it on the non-alclad parts?
