Put the outboard skin on the left wing to double check the beveling of the skins where they overlap. It was flush with the tank skin as specified, so took off both skins and gave 'em a shot of primer where the aluminium was filed off.
While the primer was drying, took the tank back off the spar. I was unhappy with the dimples done the day before. Ignored the advice to not use a squeezer, and the result was horrible dimples. Decided to try the DRDT-2 to press them out. Put the #8 dimple dies on, with a spacer under one (so that I didn't have to change the setting for the #40 dimples). Pressed a couple of holes. What a difference. It got rid of most of the puckering. Did one whole side, then decided to add another spacer on the other die. Viola! It took virtually every bit of pucker out. Now the dimples are set in nice flat skin. So repressed all the holes. Ended up dimpling the tank screw holes 3 times! I guess with a C-frame dimpler as mentioned in the narrative you can just whack the hell out it to get enough force. Couldn't reach the most forward bottom hole (outboard end) with the press, so tried to hit it again with the squeezer. You really have to put a lot of effort in to the tank skin, like enough to squeeze a 1/8 rivet. A squeezer is not recommended.
Before and after are quite obvious.
Installed the tank a second time, and then the inboard skin and doubler. This time put in all the necessary clecos.
Also removed the vinyl from the inside of the right tank skin. Numbered the right tank ribs to prepare to cleco them into the skin. Marked the two inboard ribs for a fuel injection return line.
